There’s something nostalgic about homebaked rolls. My mother baked a pie plate full of rolls on days when she baked bread. Nothing was a more welcoming sight at dinner (our lunch). Served warm, butter melted instantly. Topped with peach preserves, I dunked countless numbers in my coffee. Rolls were as iconic as American Pie. But in today’s times, we find ourselves ripping at crusty European loaves of bread instead.
There’s something nostalgic about homebaked rolls. My mother baked a pie plate full of rolls on days when she baked bread. Nothing was a more welcoming sight at dinner (our lunch). Served warm, butter melted instantly. Topped with peach preserves, I dunked countless numbers in my coffee. Rolls were as iconic as American Pie. But in today’s times, we find ourselves ripping at crusty European loaves of bread instead.
Dinner rolls had once held a significant cultural importance in various societies across the globe. These fluffy bread rolls symbolized family unity and togetherness at mealtimes, often shared amongst friends to foster bonds and create a sense of community. The act of breaking bread together, including dinner rolls, was deeply rooted in tradition, signifying hospitality and warmth.
What’s happened to that soft, rich buttery American dinner roll? Particularly the Parker House Roll — the most iconic of them all.
It was my sister-in-law, Jean Wieser, who introduced us to them. She was born in San Angelo, grew up in Victoria, Houston, in many dusty oil towns out west, and Austin. Her dad had followed the Texas oil boom, necessitating frequent relocation.
But it was in Austin where she met my brother. Her mother then ran a boardinghouse just north of the capitol for students attending University of Texas. He was studying law. Her meals were hearty, filling and legendary. Like his father, he married a land lady’s daughter. Returning to Fredericksburg in 1950, Jean, a city girl, had to learn to cook. She learned quickly. Her meals became as legendary as her mother-in-law’s, and she introduced us to Parker House Rolls.
Dinner rolls have a rich and intriguing history that spans centuries, requiring nothing but flour and yeast, butter and milk, salt and sugar and water. Recipes requiring milk do so for good reasons. Without milk, rolls are dry and bland. Milk keeps them soft, tender and rich. Some suggest two eggs provide increased flavor, and butter — more richness.
Rolls appeared in ancient Rome, but modern dinner rolls originated in England and were brought to their colonies. In 1832, Harvey Parker bought a Boston café, renamed it Parker’s, and added rooms. A larger Parker House Hotel was completed in 1855. Decidedly upscale, it became noted for its guests. John Wilkes Booth practiced target shooting out back. Mary Todd Lincoln took a room when visiting her son at Harvard, and Mark Twain and Charles Dickens smoked their cigars in its lobby. Even Ho Chi Minh was once employed there as a bus boy.
The hotel’s kitchen gained notoriety upon inventing the Boston cream pie in 1856. Stories differ on their rolls. Were they accidental or a deliberate attempt of sabotage by a disgruntled chef? Whatever, in the 1870s they gained publicity. They were soft, crispy, with a buttery folded shape. Folded! Ooh la la!
Guests raved, some swooned. Their signature tuck was a savory, satisfying sensation. The dough had been folded in half and its edge pressed to keep it in place while rising. Amazingly, this had ensured a crisp outside and soft inside.
A French composer staying there in 1876 was so impressed he wrote a song, “Parker House rolls, Parker House rolls, how I love you.”
The rolls’ fame spread, but their recipe was kept secret — that is until Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt stayed there in 1933. Eleanor loved the rolls and requested their recipe. Appears she could not be refused. They might have brought some relief from the deplorable meals she planned. Eventually, the recipe found its way into the White House’s chef’s cookbook.
The arrival of bread in the New World was a significant moment. European settlers brought their culinary traditions. As the colonies grew, so did the demand for different styles of bread. The tradition of serving small, individual-sized rolls became a common practice in America and continued into the 20th century. They emphasized the importance of bread as a complement to any meal. Dinner rolls became a common sight, symbolizing warmth, hospitality and abundance.
As urbanization and industrialization transformed society, rolls emerged as a symbol of prosperity and leisure. Meanwhile, the industrial revolution brought about advancements in flour milling and yeast production, making it easier to produce lighter and softer breads. These played significant roles in the emergence of dinner rolls, as bakers began experimenting with different shapes and sizes to cater to consumer preferences.
The rise of railroads and transportation facilitated distribution of these delectable rolls beyond local bakeries. They gained a wider audience. As the culinary landscape evolved, dinner rolls, once a simple accompaniment, became a cherished tradition. They marked a shift in how bread was consumed, emphasizing sustenance, enjoyment and a social connection.
The Parker House Roll recipe became an American classic, thanks to its crisp buttery crust and a soft tender interior. Any Fischer & Wieser jam can add a finishing touch.
Recipes appeared in every cookbook author and baker in the country except here. That is, not until the 6th edition (1948) of our “Fredericksburg Home Kitchen Cook Book.”
While the ingredients varied, it remained the fold that was key to calling it a Parker House roll.
Ingredients:
1 cake yeast 1 pt. warmed whole milk, scalded; then cooled 2 tbsp. sugar 4 tbsp. unsalted butter 6 cups flour 1 tsp. salt 3 tbsp. unsalted butter (melted, sufficient for brushing) 1 cup warm water 1 egg, beaten with 2 tbsp. whole cream
Preparation:
Dissolve yeast and sugar in lukewarm milk. Add egg, shortening and 3 cups flour. Beat until smooth. Cover and let rise in a warm place – one hour.
Add salt and remaining flour to make stiff dough. Knead well and place in a greased bowl. Cover and let it rise again in a warm place until doubled.
Roll dough out to ¼ inch in thickness. Brush lightly with melted butter. Cut with a 2-inch biscuit cutter. Crease and fold over each half.
Space 1 inch apart on baking sheet. Cover and let rise for ¾ hour. Brush with melted butter. Bake 10 minutes at 400ºF.
Serve immediately.